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The journal

Every story, every detour.

Rides, guides and the boring bits that make the good bits possible.

Key Monastery stacked on its hill above Spiti, surrounded by snow, in March

Guides · Spiti

Is Spiti open in December? Road by road

7 min read
A blue rucksack tied with rope to the seat of a rented motorcycle at a roadside stop on the Delhi–Jaipur highway

Rides · Jaipur

My first solo ride: Delhi to Jaipur on a rented Xpulse

4 min read
Om Parvat, a dark rock peak streaked with snow, seen from Nabhidhang

Guides · Itinerary

Adi Kailash and Om Parvat by motorcycle: a 7-day plan from Delhi

7-day plan
Waves on Pangong Tso under brown mountains and a blue sky

Guides · Itinerary

Leh Ladakh in 13 days: Srinagar in, Manali out

13-day plan

Guides · Passes

Every pass you can ride in Ladakh, Kashmir, Himachal and Uttarakhand, ranked by altitude

2 min read
Three motorcycles riding along a straight road under the bare Zanskar mountains

Guides · Itinerary

Zanskar to Umling La: a 14-day Ladakh motorcycle itinerary

14-day plan

Guides · Itinerary

Sach Pass itinerary: 7 days from Delhi, by motorcycle

7-day plan
Snow-capped ridges above the Spiti valley near Kaza in late May

Guides · Itinerary

Spiti in 8 days: in and out through Kinnaur

8-day plan
Nako village under snow, with dark clouds over the Kinnaur peaks in March

Guides · Itinerary

Winter Spiti in 6 days: the plan and the kit list

6-day plan
Gonbo Rangjon, a sheer pyramid of rock, under a blue sky on the Zanskar side of Shinku La

Guides · Itinerary

Zanskar via Shinku La: a 7-day motorcycle itinerary from Delhi

7-day plan
Sunlit peaks and a river through a mountain valley

Guides · Filming

How to film a motorcycle trip that feels like a story

1 min read
Motorcycle and rider beside the Umling La sign

Guides · Ladakh

Ladakh bike trip planning: leave room for the unexpected

2 min read
A rider on a quiet road

Plan · Budget

How to budget for a motorcycle trip without guessing

2 min read
A motorcycle loaded with travel luggage

Plan · Packing

Motorcycle trip packing list: less luggage, less drama

2 min read
A quiet pause surrounded by mountains

Rides · Slow travel

Slow travel on a motorcycle: stop turning the trip into a checklist

1 min read
A rider beside a motorcycle on a mountain road

Guides · Group rides

Riding with friends: agree on these things before you leave

1 min read

The Dispatch

One ride. One tip. One photo.

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